Felder Felder test

Wednesday 15th February

I have been assisting Georgina Graham for a few months now and she very kindly asked me to go along to a test for Fashion Week with herself and her first assistant, Natalie Piacun.  The location was Baseline Studios in West London.  The casting for the show was going ahead at the same time so there were a lot of bodies about!  Georgina is friends with the Felders so she had already seen the collection, but usually this is when the hair and make-up artists would get to see the collection for the first time, and discuss with the designer and the stylist what looks they want for the hair and make-up.  The clothes were inspired by Ryan McGinley’s photographs of nudes in geological caves. The collection saw a mineral colour spectrum and the asymmetry of rock formations translated into abstract prints on wispy skirts and dresses, and even a jersey bodysuit.  Chunky knits came in bold scarlet and blush pink – one clashed beautifully with a rose gold leather skater skirt. Coats comprised over sized leather and shearling styles or came in navy and black boyfriend shapes, whilst evening wear was characterised by slim dresses, either decorated with bugle beading or split dramatically at the front.

Georgina went for a 'desert beauty'.  As Mac Cosmetics was sponsoring the show, all products were by Mac.  She went for a matte skin achieved with Pro Longwear concealer as a foundation, the pink Prep and Prime highlighter under the eye, set with blot powder.  The eyes were a contrast in texture, pressed pigment in Day Gleam was buffed all over the eye, and pressed on with a finger on to the eye lid.  Brows were brushed up and set with clear brow gel.  Cheeks were sculpted with a horizontal contour using a sculpting cream, and 'Accentuate' sculpting cream was used to highlight the cheek bones.  Lips were kept nude with 'Classic Nude' from the fall trend lip palette.

Once the model was ready Georgina got her to 'walk' as if on the catwalk to get a feel for the make-up.  First time lucky, everyone loved it and that was all there was to it!  I had heard these tests can go on for hours and hours, even days sometimes but everything just worked first time.